I landed in Abu Dhabi a week and a day ago after a not very fun long-haul flight because of a rude middle-seat neighbor (he was exhibiting a lot of "all the land is my land" hipster behavior, ugh). So I was very happy to get off the plane and use my legs.
The driver for the Korean Cultural Center in Abu Dhabi picked me up right outside the airport and took me straight to Yas Island, driving past all kinds of weird places like a giant golf course, Ferrari World, an F1 racetrack, probably Sea World and Warner Brothers but I never noticed, and so on. I somehow got 37 pieces of art into a medium-sized checked bag and very small carry-on; I was not allowed to have anything more than those two pieces (very underwhelmed by Etihad, what a terrible airline). I unpacked everything as soon as I got inside and we got to work.
Soo-yeon was very prepared and within four hours, everything was pretty much placed. We did a little bit of lighting and then made notes on what tags needed to be fixed or re-printed. These metal mesh walls are all on wheels, very easy to move around, and extremely easy to hang onto. SO EASY. I also love the chance for people to see the backside of many of these pieces.
In the middle, Zaheer went to get some pizza. Not what I would ever choose as a first meal upon landing but after 30 hours of not sleeping (I think I slept maybe 10-15 min on the long flight incoming—each direction, even though one left Chicago and one arrived in NYC, was 13 hours) you just have to be polite and eat what is in front of you.
At a certain point, I finally said, I am so tired I need to leave. Zaheer took me to the hotel, where I learned upon check-in that I had spa access. For all the travel I have done, I am not wise enough to pack a swimsuit even if you don't know for sure that the hotel has a pool, because if you don't, then you end up like me. I knew immediately that I had to get into the hot tub, but had to figure out how to get to the giant mall from the hotel.
I shamelessly just rode a bus without paying and wandered around looking for a place that might have a swimsuit. It was pretty dire, and so much of what was on sale were puffer vests and sweaters. The weather was usually in the 80s each day so I don't know what that is all about. But in my wandering around Rolex, Mercedes, and a zillion chain stores, I happened upon Peter Gentenaar's paper sculptures! That was a fun find even though I was out of my mind by then.
Finally, I found a store that I thought HAD to have swimsuits because it had Waikiki in the name. I got one that was the least hideous and then again got onto a bus I was supposed to pay for without paying because that was all I could manage (also that's what happens when transit systems only accept fares on their own cards). There are free shuttles that loop around the island to all the attractions but I'm pretty sure if I had waited for that, I'd be passed out in the street. Then I got into the hot tub and sauna and finally got into bed. I knew that I should eat dinner but by 9am gave up and figured sleep was more important.
The breakfast buffet at this hotel was similar to the one in Sharjah last year, a mix of Indian, Chinese, Middle Eastern, and continental. I was so happy to have big savory breakfasts again. This is only my first plate and I never had a morning without at least two.
I walked each day to KCC since it was in walking distance. They are located inside of a giant complex of buildings called the Yas Creative Hub and security is pretty intense. But there was a well-stocked market very close by, which was a good option even though I surprisingly only got snacks there once!
Along with final lighting and show prep, I needed to get ready for the workshop on the night after my show opening. I was truly amazed by the resources at KCC, the Korean government is spending a LOT of money to be there and I am not quite sure why, given the size of their audience. But was glad to see a spare pile of Wonju Hanji, in probably every color that they make, as backup to the Andong Hanji we ordered for the class.
Oh, look, my pictures are out of order and I don't feel like fixing it. This stray cat I saw my first morning at breakfast outdoors where people ate poolside. You knew it wanted to get in, and it did on the second morning!
This is only one of MANY rooms that the KCC is renting. There's three kinds of tea, and of course everything in this place has been shipped from Korea. There are also classrooms, so many supplies, a prayer room, an entire library, offices, and a kitchen for when they want to run cooking classes.
This wall also has signed photos from peopel like BTS, along with Korean brand toys and products. They have three screens running my hanji videos for the show duration.
This is where things get tricky, since the whole gallery corner is windows. I had the shades drawn for installation so I could see what best goes where but the light is so strong that pieces that are black or grey turn white when blindingly backlit. It also messes with the indoor lighting (aka rendering it all useless).
My preference was to leave most of the shades closed but who knows what they will do now that I'm gone.
The day of the opening, I was treated to lunch with two staff plus the director, and we went to a very fancy new Korean restaurant at the Hilton complex across the street. While the banana makgeolli welcome drink was lovely, the main dish was underwhelming. I felt guilty not finishing it but was starting to understand that my body was still so jet lagged that it was resisting my forcing it to eat, since it wanted to be sleeping instead.
Then I had to kill time before the reception and opening/artist talk, so I found some cushions and closed some folding screens in the prayer room and laid down. No sleeping but a bit of rest.
I had to review all of my interview answers a day ahead of time, and then was told before my talk that I needed to also type up all of my responses, ASAP! I was horrified by this, because since when is any of this required? Right after the opening, I was on my computer typing. And I was so tired that after that, I went to bed at 8pm and then got up at 5am to type more in the hotel lobby. Because guess how press is done here? You have to answer interviews by email, and the venue has to take pictures, and the "journalists" don't have to go anywhere! I had been told to clear my schedule for interviews but I didn't realize it meant that I had to write all of my press immediately and that constituted the "interview."
The KCC also wanted to make souvenirs for attendees, so they ordered tote bags with my images ironed on. I would have preferred that money be given to me, but, oh well! I was relieved on the first day, though, to be informed that I didn't need to go to COP28 in Dubai to do more teaching/exhibiting (issues with the venue capacity). One last-minute gig was enough for me.
This was part of what was left from the reception. I didn't have time to eat or drink during the event and they cleaned up so quickly that I only got a few bites before running off to type up my interview, but it was a pretty spread. And for all my bag complaining, when I got back to the hotel, I recognized one of the audience members because he had a bag, too!
Korean Cultural Center Abu Dhabi
More pictures from my exhibit
